Chef Jean-Charles Berruet of The Chanticleer
Name: Jean-Charles Berruet
Age: 63
Born & Raised: Brittany France
Restaurant Name: The Chanticleer Previous Owner/Chef, 35 years
Location: Siasconset, MA
Spring 2006 News: The Chanticleer is reopening!! Jeff Worster and Susans handy the owners of my personal favorite on Nantucket, Black-Eyed Susans will run the Chanticleer this summer. Look for more news and photos coming to this website soon!
After 35 years Jean Charles sold the restaurant in 2004 and moved to Florida. He is running a restaurant down there. He was an inspiration and mentor to many chefs on the island. He will be missed cooking on Nantucket.
When did you first become interested in food?
My father loved food and cooking and I helped him in the kitchen. My grandfather had a small vineyard in France. Food has always been a part of my life. People who don’t have much money are always growing and raising food and have an interest in cooking. I started as an apprentice at 14 years old working in a restaurant in France. It’s formal training for 3+ years and I worked for a master, Charles Barrier. He was one of the best chefs in France at the time. He was very tough. From there I started traveling and working in different restaurants in France and England. I learned English in England and I also met my wife there who is Scottish. I worked all over France and got married in 1963.
When did you come to Nantucket and what brought you here?
I was working in Verdun France at the Bellevue hotel. There was a big army base there and I became friends with many of the American soldiers. I decided I wanted to go to the states and wrote Gourmet Magazine for suggestions. The owner of the magazine Earl Mac Ausland needed a private chef so I took the job. He had a home in New York City and a home on Nantucket. I was a chef for his family for 3 years. Earl’s wife started the Daffodil Parade on Nantucket. After 3 years working for them I decided to leave in the fall of 1969. Some Nantucket businessmen including Roy Larson bought The Chanticleer and wanted to preserve it. They needed someone to run the restaurant, a big chief laughs. We opened in the summer of 1970. It was a lot of work, over the years at had become very run down.
You are known for amazing selections of wines and have won many awards?
We have won the Wine Spectator Grand Award since 1987 for having one of the best wine lists in the world. We go to France every year and meet with the wine makers. Keeping a wine list is not just a financial investment but also a lot of time. Every morning we overlook our inventory and change the wine list daily, it’s a lot of maintenance.
So many Nantucket chefs look up to you.
For young guys starting in the business they see you can be true to your style and be successful. Many of the island chefs have at one time worked for me.
How many years have you been in the cooking business?
50 soon *laughs* half a century
Where you have worked?
I worked in the winters at the Jupiter Island Club in Hobe Sound, Florida for 3 years while The Chanticleer was closed. After that I stayed on Nantucket in the winter.
What style/culture influences /inspires you?
French is my specialty. I leave other styles of cooking to other people. I want to be an expert in what I do. We use local products; we are not to stiff as far as following strict French style cooking.
Who are your mentors?
Charles Barrier, Fernand Point he started traditional French cuisine in the 50’s.
What do you enjoy doing besides cooking?
Fishing, I fish as much as I can. I love to be on the water. There’s lots of energy on the water. I also enjoy carving birds and fish and enter some shows.
How would you describe the restaurant to someone who’s never been?
Physically it’s a beautiful New England house and there’s nothing to commercial about it. There are two different styles of dining at The Chanticleer. During lunch its very layed back, t-shirts, shorts and outdoor seating. At night its more formal, we used to require jackets but we have relaxed. We use traditional French techniques and use the local products as much as we can. We like fish a lot and use as much as possible.
What is the history of the restaurant?
It was first an ice cream parlor in the late 1800’s. They believe the building was brought over from the bluff. From 1904-1909 they added more structures to the building and it hasn’t changed since. It has been a restaurant since 1904 or so and it’s always been called The Chanticleer.
How do you come up with ideas for the menu?
The menu depends on the available seasonal ingredients and whatever suppliers have or local farmers or fisherman.
How often does the menu change?
We have a base menu and everyday we have 10 or 12 specials. Again depending on seasonal ingredients and whatever fresh food we come across.
What do you try to do that is different from anyone else?
I don’t follow trends and do what I know the best I can.
Do you travel for inspiration? Where have you gone?
Oh yes, I drive from Nantucket to Florida in the winter and stop at many small restaurants along the way. I research places to eat before we go and eat great food and meet many interesting people.
Are there any new discoveries in food world?
I think basically everything has been done. Interpretations have changed. The fish have always been in the ocean.
What are some of your favorite dishes?
I love wild game birds, fish and shellfish. Those are my favorites.
Any tips for the cooking at home?
Keep it simple. I always tell the kids, don't add one ingredient, take away one ingredient. Everything in cooking starts with the ingredients.
Thanks for speaking with Nantucket Food & Wine, any last words?
I want to thank Earl Mac Ausland for bringing me to Nantucket.
